Presidial 2006 - Jean-Luc Thunevin
Master Garagiste Produces a
Brilliant Everyday Bordeaux (Again)
By Cynthia Hurley
Winemaker Jean-Luc Thunevin and Murielle in their St Emilion Garden
The 2006 Presidial Bordeaux has arrived! Some people came back for thirds on this wine last year. We kept the 2005s flowing until the very last drop, but then we had to wait while Jean-Luc Thunevin finished working his magic with the 2006 Presidial.
But, it is here now and I'm ready to fill your glass. You will love it! It is all concentrated fruit and none of those vegetal, reedy flavors or rough tannins that often mar a lower priced Bordeaux that is not meticulously made. This Presidial 2006 is quite perfect and no surprise considering that Thunevin is the architect.
It doesn't hurt that this Bordeaux has been the rave of the French press. It has been been called the "Best Value in Bordeaux". More than once. Now that is tough to top. You probably know who Jean-Luc Thunevin is by now. He "started" the whole "garage" movement back in 1989. Garage wines are small production wines made from tiny parcels of vines that are tended as preciously as orchid gardens.
Jean Luc bought a tiny parcel, on the "wrong side of the tracks" in Saint-Emilion and proved to the venerable Saint-Emilion establishment in a few vintages that one could make a silk purse from a moose's ear if you did things like de-stemming by hand and severe green harvesting and keeping the yields very, very low.
He called his wine Valandraud. It led the way in the quality revolution in Saint-Emilion that persists to this day. Now, even the old establishment types are copying his every move. We have Jean-Luc Thunevin to thank for a lot of the great wine coming out of Saint-Emilion because today he advises many, many chateau owners about their wines.
That is why when Jean-Luc gets a yearning to do something - like create a great, little generic Bordeaux that doesn't cost an arm and leg - I want to get in on it. That's the Presidial story. He took great parcels of terroir from around Liborne which is right next to Pomerol and Saint-Emilion and applied all of his demanding winemaking techniques et voila!
Some of you read my emails and proclaim, "What doesn't she like?" Well, if you only knew how hard it is to find a really great little Bordeaux you wouldn't be saying that. There are hundreds of wines that splash down my gullet and then right into the spittoon never to meet my taste buds again. This Presidial was a winner from the get-go.
I had it the other night and my first thoughts were about the fabulous, pure fruit that started out good and ended up good. It is really a charmer and at this price, you should think seriously about two cases. Cynthia Hurley
On sale: $16.99 By the solid case: $15.99
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