Lots of ripe cherries and berries with undergrowth and mushroom undertones, as well as ash. It’s full-bodied with round, creamy tannins and a medium-chewy finish. A solid Chianti Classico here. Give it a year or two to soften. Real deal.

The 2017 Chianti Classico Riserva is a powerful, dense wine. In most vintages, the Riserva is quite forthcoming, but readers should be prepared to cellar the 2017. Perhaps it is the Colorino in the blend, but the Riserva really packs quite a punch in terms of its structural intensity. Ripe red fruit, cedar, tobacco, licorice, dried herbs, cinnamon and blood orange start to develop with some aeration. The best clearly lies ahead.

An intense aroma of iron and graphite leads off, followed by black cherry, black currant, leather and forest floor flavors. This is well-built, with the dusty 2017 tannins, but also a lot of juicy fruit. The dry finish is compact. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Best from 2021 through 2038. 26,000 cases made, 17,000 cases imported.