This was a very expensive year to make wine. The team at Domenico Clerico had to deal with three devastating hail storms and were forced to use helicopters (something that is no longer allowed today) for vineyard treatments. Happily, the 2014 Barolo seems to have moved past its difficult birth. Tasted today at this young stage in its evolution, the wine is steady and intense with lovely berry tones that rise delicately to the top. The mouthfeel is also richer and more complete than I expected. The blend is 90% Nebbiolo from Ginestra and 10% from Mosconi.

This opens with aromas of dark berry, cooking spice and espresso. The racy palate offers tart cherry, toast, mocha and tobacco alongside assertive, close-grained tannins. Drink after 2022.