This youthful wine shows the expected pineapple-like spiciness buttressed by great structure and energy. Pale yellow, it’s surprisingly appealing now, despite its youthful vigour. The sumptuous richness of mature Corton-Charlemagne starts to peek through as it sits in the glass. I’m sure that will develop and become more apparent thanks to the wine’s impeccable balance and underlying crystalline structure. It was still fresh and pure the next night after being opened and refrigerated.

This has attractive notes of wet chalk with bread dough and a swathe of ripe peaches. Nuances of citrus, too. The palate has great weight and depth with a very assertive, long and seamless drive. Classic Corton power here. Wow! Drink or hold.

A subdued nose on this wine allows glimpses of lemon and chalk, holding a distant promise of gilded richness. The palate comes in with smooth precision, still harboring a flinty whiff of reduction but also hinting at creamy, rich depths of texture and flavor. A chalky well of lemony, cool freshness awaits at the core. This wine needs time to blossom, and promises chalky, bright, generous but precise richness. The finish offers a lovely note of butter.