Dr. H. Thanisch Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett 2017
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A reductive style, with yeasty notes at the beginning that blow off with some air. Once they clear, this white shows beautiful harmony and an expressive palate, filled with orchard and stone fruit flavors, all linked by minerality and firm acidity. Crafted with precision. Drink now through 2027. 200 cases made, 50 cases imported.
Pristine, sun-kissed white peach and grapefruit flavors are jolted by lightening strikes of lemon and lime in this irresistibly lip-smacking wine. It's intensely juicy and concentrated yet breathless and weightless on the palate. A gorgeous wine already that should improve through 2027.
Ripe quince and Golden Delicious apple are wreathed in musky narcissus and tinged with pungency of bruised apple skin on a nose that foreshadows the almost decadently ripe fruit and inner-mouth perfume, but also the counterpoint of chew and piquancy, that emerges on the polished, buoyant palate. Fresh lime injects welcome juiciness and animation to a lusciously lingering finish where high residual sugar is held in check. Interestingly for a vintage in which many growers found it challenging to capture ripeness at a must weight appropriate to Kabinett, the volume of this bottling slightly exceeds the aggregate volume of the present collection's two Doctor Spätlesen.