Dr. H. Thanisch Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett 2017
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Picked in the third week of October, the 2017 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett is deep and intense on the flinty, yeasty nose that's less reductive than usual. Super ripe and lush Riesling flavors intertwine with flinty notes, leading to an enormously lush and mouth-filling Riesling with a salty-mineral and piquant finish. This is at least Spätlese if not Auslese quality in terms of fruit intensity and richness. The finish is piquant and salty, crisp and stimulating. I don't get the Doctor here at this stage, but let's talk about it again in 10 years. The wine was bottled with 54 milligrams of free SO2. Tasted in March 2019.
A reductive style, with yeasty notes at the beginning that blow off with some air. Once they clear, this white shows beautiful harmony and an expressive palate, filled with orchard and stone fruit flavors, all linked by minerality and firm acidity. Crafted with precision. Drink now through 2027. 200 cases made, 50 cases imported.
Pristine, sun-kissed white peach and grapefruit flavors are jolted by lightening strikes of lemon and lime in this irresistibly lip-smacking wine. It's intensely juicy and concentrated yet breathless and weightless on the palate. A gorgeous wine already that should improve through 2027.
Ripe quince and Golden Delicious apple are wreathed in musky narcissus and tinged with pungency of bruised apple skin on a nose that foreshadows the almost decadently ripe fruit and inner-mouth perfume, but also the counterpoint of chew and piquancy, that emerges on the polished, buoyant palate. Fresh lime injects welcome juiciness and animation to a lusciously lingering finish where high residual sugar is held in check. Interestingly for a vintage in which many growers found it challenging to capture ripeness at a must weight appropriate to Kabinett, the volume of this bottling slightly exceeds the aggregate volume of the present collection's two Doctor Spätlesen.