Hexamer' "one star" 2006 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Spatlese - from the heart of the Rheingrafenberg - offers a heady corsage of gardenias backed by quince jelly, apricot preserves, and candied lemon. With an uncanny combination of polished richness with lithe, light-footedness and refreshing acidity, and at an astonishingly low 7% alcohol (and correspondingly high residual sugar), this manages perfectly to convey the botrytis-tinged super-ripeness of the vintage while offering wafting delicacy. Subtle salty, smoky notes add interest to the long, dreamy finish. If you have any kind of a sweet tooth when it comes to Riesling it will be hard to resist drinking this now, but I suspect it will be capable of up to 20 years positive evolution in bottle.

Ripe and fleshy, this Riesling offers peach and mandarin orange notes that stay defined by the vibrant acidity. Has fine length. This will come together nicely in time. Drink now through 2025.