Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares 2005
|Region||France, Burgundy, Cote de Nuits|
Meaty and alkaline notes mingle with the more typical brambly black raspberry, horehound and concentrated herbal side of the Jadot 2005 Bonnes Mares. Intense, pungent berry and herb concentration along with underbrush on the palate lead me to imagine that the thorns will draw blood. The hugely concentrated, torrential finish preserves a very tart berry freshness, medicinal herbal pungency, black tea bitterness, and deep meatiness. This is neither for the faint of heart nor for those seeking comfort or charm. Lock it up for 12-15 years. Jacques Lardiere has once again presided over a collection for the most part not intended to flatter in its youth, but rather to achieve an eventual balance of fruit acidity with (in this instance frequently quite prominent) tannin. Prolonged post-fermentative extraction promoted a formidably-structured group of wines, which Lardiere expressed no hurry about bottling. Certain of these - particularly from the Cote de Beaune - displayed a slightly drying finishing astringency or simply an austere lack of charm to match their concentration, traits Lardiere suggested might be traceable to drought stress in those sites. A brief July rain that reached the Cote de Nuits but not the Cote de Beaune was critical, he asserts, and all of Jadot's vines in the northern Cote were picked before the harvest in the south commenced. (Wines from the Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Heritiers Louis Jadot, or Domaine Gagey, have been identified with a letter "D" in their listings.) 93-95
A notably ripe red and blue berry fruit nose is nuanced by chalk, minerals and abundant spice notes that continue onto the toasty, rich, full and massively powerful flavors that are suave and superbly concentrated, all wrapped in a very Bonnes Mares style finish as this is chewy but not rustic. An impressive wine where the finish doesn't seem to ever end.