The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Forêts is showing superbly after another winter on the lees, unfurling in the glass with a bouquet of citrus fruit, white flowers and crisp yellow apples that are less forthcoming than that of the expressive Vaillons. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with excellent tension at the core and a compelling sense of completeness. This will warrant at least a few years' patience.