The 2017 Chinon La Baronnie Madeleine is just starting to open up, offering a flowing expression in the mouth, then following up with a melted-chocolate-like tannic framework that embraces the palate, giving a sense of firmness that would remind Bordeaux lovers of Pomerol. It's a fairly unshowy wine, with medium body at most, but it really grows on you thanks to the rather silky midpalate and the gently unfurling aromas of graphite, spice and ripe red fruits. The finish is mouthwatering, taut and scented. This can be consumed now but would benefit from further bottle aging thanks to its structured conclusion.