Deep brilliant violet. Intensely perfumed aromas of ripe cherry, blackberry, candied violet, spicecake, garrigue and exotic spices, along with a smoky mineral overtone that builds in the glass. Stains the palate with deeply concentrated red and dark berry liqueur, fruitcake, licorice pastille and lavender flavors that possess a compelling blend of richness and energy. The mineral note comes back strong on a strikingly long, penetrating finish shaped by velvety, steadily mounting tannins. This is the best example of this venerable domaine's work that I can recall drinking in its infancy, and it may measure up to their legendary 1959 and 1961 bottlings, which I first tried back in the late 1980s.

Intense raspberry and black currant compote notes form the core, which is dense in feel, with melted licorice, singed anise and warm fruitcake flavors filling in around the fruit. A solid, racy graphite edge supports all the elements through the long, grippy finish. Best from 2020 through 2035.

Showing similar to last year, the 2016 Châteauneuf Du Pape offers a classic bouquet of black raspberries, garrigue, and spice box, with a touch of minerality. It's more rounded, fleshy, and layered than the more concentrated 2017, has plenty of upfront appeal, and will keep for 15+ years.