Right from the beginning, this has an enchanting nose of red apple, raspberry and candied orange peel. But as it aerates in the glass, notes of chocolate and sushi ginger emerge. Tons of depth and structure for a Brut NV, the creaminess reining in the power. The long, saline finish pulls you back for more. A cuvee of 3/4 pinot noir and 1/4 chardonnay. Based on the 2016 vintage with just over a third of perpetual reserve (solera system). From organically grown grapes.

The NV Esprit Nature is a fabulous introduction to this range. Creamy, open-knit and so expressive, the Esprit Nature captures all of the textural intensity that is such a Giraud signature, but in an approachable style. The Esprit Nature is 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay done mostly in oak, with a bit of sandstone amphora. This release is based on 2017, 50% reserve wines. Readers should note that the "Nature" is used here as part of the wine name, rather than an indication of dosage, which is 6 grams per liter.