Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 2018
# 41 - TOP 100 WINE SPECTATOR 2020
Deep dark cherry-red. Initially, the nose of plummy fruits meshed with sweet spices (predominantly cinnamon), almond. And then a pause to imbibe the aromatic atmospherics of a patisserie: Crème anglaise, cannoli with vanilla custard ... and classic bourbon vanilla at that! A croquembouche's (profiterole) hazelnut is brittle. Grated chocolate - both white and dark. Fresh, awakening. The palate is medium-bodied. Raspberry/chocolate flavors with a sprinkling of spice and cola. Fleshy, and an almost glycerolic texture; bulbous/expansive palate profile. Tannins - integrated/embedded - supportive, not standing apart. Oak - no obtrusive flavors to speak of ... yet all the benefits of a calm maturation is seasoned hogsheads. Acidity - in tune with the wine's weight and structure. Rest in bottle for a year or two. Needs time.
Shows terrific concentration, with dense and chewy tannins providing an appealing backdrop to the blueberry, dried cherry, date and candied ginger flavors. Tobacco, tomato leaf and espresso notes linger on the finish. Drink now through 2030.
While named for a Barossa vineyard/locale, the 2018 Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz, like other recent vintages, is blended from various South Australian GIs. With its rich, dark-berried fruit accented with vanilla, it does a more-than-credible job re-creating that northern Barossan idiom. It's full-bodied, concentrated and plush without going over the top, finishing long and velvety. While it may not have single-vineyard snob appeal, it's a delicious wine for drinking over the next decade and a relative value.