A Pommard of unheard-of aromatic tenderness – the 2019 vintage has caused the lines to shift considerably. And we can just imagine being on the slopes of the premiers crus of Savigny, Vergelesses, or even more so, of Serpentières.

The delicate sweetness of red fruits, vanilla mixed with strawberry, raspberry, white coffee, cappuccino and Dutch cigarillos transport the taster to these climats; when we probe a little, we end up discovering the characteristics of a Pommard – black cherry, peony, and a chocolate note that might usually evoke bitter cocoa but here it’s more like milk chocolate; and, as for the Pommard leather, it only shows up intermittently – a suggestion of leather that seems ethereal.

The palate shows smooth tannins; there’s a certain spiritual connection with Les Epenots – undoubtedly the most Beaune or Vosne expression of Pommard; coulis of red fruits – strawberries and raspberries – liqueurs and jams of those fruits too; a ferruginous minerality that brings a note of fresh blood, red meat, pigeon blood to the palate. The finish is perfectly coherent, and finally, there’s classy grace. It is very well aged (10 to 15 years).