A real Clos des Mouches' is how Véronique Drouhin describes this textbook expression of one of Beaune's two best white Premiers Crus. Every bit as good as some more famous Grands Crus, it's floral and enticing, with aromas of hawthorn blossom and lilies, flavours of patisserie and orange zest, fine, scented, toasty oak and the structure and acidity to age. Just shades it over the red Clos des Mouches in 2018.

The 2018 Clos des Mouches Blanc is an outstanding wine in the making. Due to the varied ripening of parcels in the vineyard this year, the team at Maison Drouhin made several passes through the vineyard to bring in chardonnay in optimal condition, so that the picking here occurred between August 30th and September 8th, which was quite a wide window in this vintage. The results speak for themselves, with the beautiful nose offering up scents of lemon, apple, beeswax, chalky soil tones, citrus peel, a deft framing of vanillin oak and a lovely floral topnote redolent of apple blossoms. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, focused and sports lovely mid-palate depth, with lovely cut and grip, impeccable balance and a long, complex and focused finish.

A beautiful white with sliced-mango, cooked-apple and lemon-curd aromas and flavors. Full-bodied with lots of fruit and intensity. Some tropical fruit at the end. White peaches, too. Delicious already. Drink or hold.

The 2018 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1er Cru, which has been produced by Drouhin since 1928, comes from six separately aged parcels. Drouhin mentioned that quite a few barrels were deselected from this vineyard and blended into the Côte de Beaune Blanc. This possesses an intense bouquet with subtle scents of almond, praline and pressed white flower aromas. The palate is taut and linear on the entry, featuring lovely orange pith and apricot notes and hints of tangerine and white chocolate toward the gorgeous, pure finish. Wonderful.