This wine strides forward with an extremely herbaceous nose, from oregano to thyme to tomato leaf. It also conveys the peppery savoriness of capsicum plus the depth of newly turned soil and a final pop of sour cherries. The palate continues the theme, with more peppers and cherries, but also sundried tomatoes and balsamic vinegar. Polished and consistent tannins make for a fun but slick balance of savory and sweet.

Another impressive wine from Brancaia, the 2019 Ilatraia is produced from 40% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, and the rest Cabernet Franc from the Maremma. It is potent with black fruit, menthol, sage, and just a hint of rusticity lurking underneath with a note of saddle leather. Meaty and full up-front, it tapers slightly with a pleasant hit of acidity, warming spice, and tannins that continue through the back. It is tightly wound and will continue improve over the following 15 or so years. Drink 2025-2040.

The 2019 Ilatraia, Brancaia's top Maremma wine, is racy and voluptuous out of the gate. A whole range of savory and spice overtones wraps around the inky blue/blackish fruit. This heady blend is so expressive today. Blackberry, espresso, licorice and leather build into the sumptuous finish.