A subtle, dry version, with an undertow of sea salt beneath the ginger, honeycomb, cardamom, green fig and quince notes. A nice crunch adds to the crystalline structure, creating a firm backbone. Tempting now, but cellar this for several years. Best from 2023 through 2033. 8,000 cases made.

The 2019 Sec Le Haut-Lieu is classy, polished and simply impeccable. Soft, silky contours wrap around a core of peach and lemon confit fruit. The first impression is all about texture. White flowers, pear and white pepper are some of the nuances that emerge over time, adding complexity, while clean, minerally notes grace the exquisite finish.