Enticing, earthy aromas of iris, camphor and dark-skinned berry mingle with truffle, leather and wild herb on this full-bodied red. Hailing from one of the best sites in Barbaresco, it’s firmly structured and incredibly delicious, delivering raspberry compote, ripe Marasca cherry, tobacco and licorice alongside youthfully assertive, noble tannins. With its Barolo-like structure, this is one for cellaring. Drink 2025-2037.

The 2017 Barbaresco Montestefano is a dark, brooding beauty. Super-ripe black cherry, plum, mocha, cloves, leather and licorice add to a real sense of gravitas that runs through the 2017. Readers need to be patient with the Montestefano. I suspect it will always remain something of a brute, but it is endowed with tremendous presence and a ton of personality.