Lots of minerality with crushed stone, chalk, white grapefruit, peach stones, white apricots, wild herbs and lavender. Touch of cedar. Evolves to nutmeg and crushed almonds. Wow. It really builds on the palate, leading to a crescendo and intensity that blows your mind. Compact and phenolic, yet so agile and refined. Goes on for minutes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

The 2021 Chardonnay Maté's Vineyard offers greater tension and sapidity compared with how the more relaxed 2020 did upon release. It will need time in bottle to shake off the rawness of youth. It is focused, concentrated and precise. There's sophisticated use of oak, which integrates seamlessly within the package. I got a cold the day after this was first opened, and almost a week later, when my senses returned, it remained impeccable, focused and compact.

From over 30-year-old vineyards in the far north of New Zealand, this Chard leads with a delicate perfume of lemon peel, mandarin, pear, seashell and white blossom, with a subtle toasty underbelly. There's a juiciness to the pithy citrus fruit on the mid-weight palate. Quietly supportive oak and a mineral streak add a feeling of purity and poise. Highly food friendly, with polish and restraint, this drinks well now but could cellar until 2033.

Rich, with toasted hazelnut and spice accents of nutmeg and cardamom to the baked apple, white peach and touches of lemon meringue. Despite the robust, intense flavors, this has a sense of restraint to the crisp thread of acidity and sleek frame. Drink now through 2030. 1,300 cases made, 168 cases imported.