Impressive aromas of fresh herbs from the Tuscan coast, such as sage, mint, rosemary, and thyme. Blackcurrants, too. Full-bodied with fine, chewy tannins that show beautiful length and consistency. Racy and beautiful, with lots of subtle and refined character. Slightly more cabernet sauvignon this year, which adds class to the wine. 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 10% petit verdot. Give this about three or four years of bottle age.

The 2020 Saffredi is compelling. Deep yet quite structured, 2020 is unlike any Saffredi I can recall tasting because of its balance of intense dark fruit and vertical structure. Plum, blackberry, pencil shavings, lavender, and spice saturate the palate. Readers will have to be patient, as 2020 is not as showy as most vintages at the same stage…This is another fine set of wines from Le Pupille. Proprietor Elisabetta Geppetti has long been a leader in Tuscany's Maremma, as these wines fully attest. The Morellinos are terrific, as are the higher-end Poggio Valente and Saffredi.

A rich, juicy nose presents handfuls of cherries and mulberries, along with slices of passion fruit, but a fresh savoriness keeps the sweetness in check. On the palate, dark chocolate brings depth, while tannins and acid attack in tandem. Bold and self-assured-a precise wine.