Dark and almost animalistic in nature, the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Piaggia bursts from the glass with smoky crushed stone, black currants and balsamic spice. It's remarkably silky and polished in feel, communicating unexpected elegance from such a dry and warm vintage. A dense textural wave ushers in mineral-tinged plums and savory herbs, leaving grippy tannins in its wake. This tapers off structured and poised, echoing with salty tension, yet also a twang of residual acidity that maintains freshness. The Vigna Piaggia is undoubtedly a success for the vintage.

This is a big, ripe Brunello, but it still comes across relatively fresh with a full body and lots of ripe black-cherry and mushroom character. Round-textured and flavorful. It’s attractive, despite slightly high alcohol. Drink now.

Camphor, leather, grilled porcini, and dried mint aromas waft out of the glass. The concentrated, meaty palate offers licorice, fleshy black cherry, and the heat of evident alcohol set against velvety tannins. Drink through 2027.