For 2019, the estate’s fiftieth pick, Jason Lett included more than 80 percent of what the estate calls the Draper selection clone, from California mass selections. One of a kind, to be sure, no Oregon chardonnay is like this one, combining a rich fullness of flavor and idiosyncratic savor that feels like it can only happen from these vines and on this Dundee Hills estate. It smells rich, of pineapple and candied ginger, pear and a hint of dried apricot. And yet there is such tension on the palate you’ll forget notions of richness and focus on the wine’s inimitable texture, layered and brimming with complex flavors. Fascinating now, it should age beautifully.

Salted-caramel and some dried-lemon and apple-turnover aromas follow through to a full body with a creamy, dried-fruit finish. Tangy and edgy. Serious. Intellectual. Drink or hold.